It’s Magic! See how you can knit two socks at a time.

pair of knit socks

It’s magic!  You can make two socks ata time with the “magic loop” knitting needles.  If it helps, a transcript follows the video.


In this tutorial, we’re going to learn 2 at-a-time, magic loop socks. And that means knitting two socks, at once, on one long circular needle, instead of double-pointed needles, or two circular needles.

If you’d like to get your copy of the pattern and follow along, you can click the link in the video description field just below the video. And something unique about this one, in this pattern, I’m going to give you instructions for both worsted weight socks, and socks that use sock yarn and tiny needles.  And the reason for that is normally, I just give you instructions for worsted weight socks, because in my opinion, that is the best way to learn a new sock technique, is to knit with bigger yarn and needles.  And then quickly knit those up, and move on to the tiny yarn and tiny needles. But in this case, I believe I have invented a new heel. Um, as far as I know I did invent a new way to knit a heel, and I guess I wíll rely on you to tell me if you’ve seen this heel somewhere before! If you haven’t seen the heel somewhere before, and I did indeed invent it, I need your help naming it.

Okay? So I had to give you a pattern for both the worsted weight and the sock weight yarn because I don’t know of another pattern that uses this heel. Um, one more thing about the heel, once you learn this you can substitute this heel in other sock patterns.

It works either sock down or toe up. I think that is all I had to say about that. In the next part of the video, we’re going to cover the cast-on, and getting started with magic loop, which is the most difficult part of the whole sock.

As I said the most difficult part of getting going with these socks is the cast-on, and getting going with the magic loop. But once you get the cast-on finished and a couple of rows done, it does get a lot easier.

But we’re going to go really slowly through how to get your stitches arranged to get started on this. I am starting with a 32 inch, size 6 circular needle, and I’m also going to be using a pair of double pointed needles.

This is just for the cast on, you’re not actually going to knit with them. If you don’t have the exact size double pointed needles as you’re using for the circular needles, ití s really okay. As long as it ís something close, within a needle size or so, you’ll be alright.

Let’s go ahead and take a look. Okay, on my needles here I have the number of stitches cast on for the size that I’m knitting. And I have half of them on the back cord, and half of them on the front cord.

All I did was I, I had them all cast on, and then I just pulled the needle long at the halfway point between the needles. Okay. And these beautiful needles are made by Signature Needle Arts, I’ll give you a link to them.

These are really nice needles to work with, and they’re so pretty. Okay. I’m also going to cast on, for the second sock, on these double pointed needles, just for the cast on. I’ll be transferring them.

And for this cast on, we’re going to use the German Twisted cast on. This is because it is a little stretchier than a normal long tail cast on. And I’ll demonstrate it here. You set yourself up like you’re doing a regular slingshot cast on.

You go under both threads on your thumb, back around and just around the one between your thumb and forefinger. Grab the yarn on your first finger, straighten out your thumb, and pull that loop through.

Let go of it and tighten it up. I’ll show you again. Around both, under the one, grab the one on your finger, straighten out your thumb, and pull it through. Now I’ll show you kind of a short cut that I do when I’m doing this.

Under both, around one, grab that, and instead of straightening out my thumb, I go under the front one and over the back one. I’ll show you that again. Under the front loop, over the back loop. And here is a link to the German Twisted cast on, if you need more of a review of this.

Thetis to a video dedicated to this cast on, where I go through it really slowly. Okay. Now I have the correct number of stitches cast on this double pointed needle. I’m going to transfer half of the stitches from here on to here.

And when you’re transferring stitches, you always slip as if to purl. I’m not counting. [laughs] That looks about right! Okay. Now this is our goal. We want to get the two stitches cast on, on to the circular needles the exact same way.

And when I say exact same way, I mean half on the front cord, half on the back cord, with the working yarn and tail here on the back cord. So, I have this going on the double pointed needles. And I can set this out so that it matches.

See there? Half on the back cord, half on the front cord, working yarn coming from the back needle. So, this is exactly how I want to transfer these stitches on to these needles. Okay. So, I’m actually going to flip it around the other way, because I’m right-handed, and it is easier for me to slip with the empty needle in my right hand.

Okay, now the back needle. And now I take the other needle and transfer on to here. Okay. If you’re anything like me, this part will have you fussing and straightening out yarns. It’s kind of hopeless to try to keep everything straight for these first few rows, but it is part of the fun of it, I guess.

Okay! This is it! This is what we’re after. And this is also the magic loop starting position. The needles are facing to the right, you have half of the stitches of each sock on the back needle, half of the stitches of each sock on the front needle.

The working yarn is coming from the back needle. The back cord. And after we knit the first stitch, when we use this working yarn to knit this stitch, we’re going to close it up and make a tube. So, the first thing I’m going to do in the magic loop starting position, is scoot everything close to the tip of the needles and pull the back cord long.

Now I have an empty needle in my right hand, and I’m ready to knit off of these stitches in my left hand. I’m going to work knit two purl two rib. And this is just knitting two, pulling the yarn forward, purl two, pulling the yarn back, knit two.

Now if you remember, I did not count when I put stitches on here. [laughs] And look at that! I’m going to end up with purl two at the end! How did I manage that? How perfect. Okay, I’m done with the first side of the first sock.

I’m going to drop that working yarn and start over here on the second sock. Okay, I have my working yarn here. I’m actually going to pull it between the needles and behind before I get started. Okay.

And after you adjust things around, you’ll see that even though you have this sock over here in this hand, you actually have an empty needle in your right hand. Here is my working yarn, I’m just going to start here with knit two.

Purl two. I didn’t mention, knitting two socks at the same time is really good if you have second sock syndrome. Where knitters get really excited about casting on and knitting a pair of socks, and then you finish one of them, and then the love has gone.

And you can’t get yourself to knit the second sock. [laughs] If you knit them both at the same time, you won’t have a problem. Okay, here I’ve finished the first half of each sock. And now what I’m going to do is turn the work and get myself back into magic loop starting position.

Which are the needles facing to the right. I swear this gets easier after the cast on row. Everything is so sticky right now! Needles facing to the right. All of the knots are facing down. Which is important these first couple of rows, because it can get twisted.

I’m going to pull the back needle long and continue with two-by-two rib on the second half of the sock. Okay. that’s the first sock. And going to move over here to the second sock. I want to be sure to drop the working yarn on the first sock.

here is my working yarn on the second sock, I just pick up my two-by-two rib here. And in the patterns, I make sure that you always start with two ñ did I just split a stitch? You always start with two knit stitches, and end with two (purl stitches).

It’s much easier to start magic loop or double pointed needles with a knit stitch. Remember how I didn’t count? I’m ending up with three knit stitches at the end here. Which is fine. That’s okay. Okay, now I finished the second sock, I turn my work, I get myself back into the starting position.

I’m making sure all the knots are down on the inside, I pull the back cord long, and I’m ready to go on these front stitches, drop the working yarn, pick up on these front stitches, turn the work, get yourself back into the starting position.

And you’re going to go around and around like that until you finish knitting the cuff. So, you knit the cuff for as many inches as you like, or I give you guidelines on how long you can make it with the amount of yarn that you’re using, and next up we’re going to talk about the heel.

Once you’ve finished knitting the cuff, we’re ready to move straight on into the heel. And we’re not going to be working two by two rib anymore. We are only going to be working across half of the stitches of the sock, and we’re going to be working stockinette, which means one knit side, one purl side.

Let’s go ahead and take a look. Here is the sock weight sock, and I’m almost finished. You see that I’ve knit the whole cuff, and I’ve knit the heel, and I’m just getting close to being finished with the foot.

But this is what the heel looks like when it’s finished. It’s pretty tidy, you can see how that line runs. And here it is on the worsted weight sock. Okay. So here I have my finished cuffs. And everything is set up for me to go around again just like before, but I’m only going to be working across the stitches on the front here.

And here is part of the chart. I give you both a chart [clears throat] excuse me! I give you both a chart and written instructions. And so, for row 1, we’re going to read it this way. All odd numbered rows will read from right to left.

And row 2 will read from left to right. And these pink blocks here that these two stitches we want to mark with stitch markers when we’re finished knitting them. So, our first stitch on row 1 is an SSK.

We’re going to knit across all the other stitches until we get to the last two, and we’re going to knit two together. Okay, and of course we will repeat that across the second sock. So SSK is slip, slip, knit.

Slip one stitch as if to knit, slip two stitches as if to knit, put your needle into the front of those two stitches, wrap the back needle and pull it through. I’ll give you a link here to a slower description of that in case you need it.

I just transferred these stitches, and some of them split a little bit. We will be okay in just a second. Whoops. Okay I’m down to the last two stitches, and I’m going to knit those two together. Okay, I’ll move on to the second sock here, and do the exact same thing.

That’s the thing about two at a time. You never have to count rows and try to make one sock match the other, since you’re doing them at the same time, repeating everything twice, you know your socks will end up being an identical pair, rather than sort of matching! Or almost the same length.

Okay. Last two stitches, and I’ll knit those two together. And remember those boxes were marked in pink, because we want to mark the first and last stitch of this row. You’ll thank me for it later! All I’m doing is putting a little clippie marker right through the stitch that is on the needle.

They won’t get in your way or anything. Okay. Row 2 has us starting with a slip stitch, purling across all the other stitches in the row, and then slipping the last stitch. Okay, so I’ve turned the work, my working yarn is coming from the back, and I’m going to be working across the same stitches I just worked across, and not across the ones on the front needle.

So, to work a wrong side here, I’m going to be pulling the front needle long. Slipping the first stitch, purling across all of the other stitches. And slipping the last stitch. Dropping that working yarn, going on to the second sock.

Slipping the first stitch, purling across all of these. And slipping the last stitch. Okay, turning my work. You can actually just leave the back needle long, because we’re going to need it long to work on the stitches that are now on the front needle again.

And Row 3 has us SSK the first two stitches, knitting across all the other stitches to the last two, and knitting two together. SSK. I want to repeat one more of the decrease section of the yet unnamed heel, and then I’ll show you what the second half of the heel looks like, and why we placed those clippie markers.

Knit two together. I don’t know if it is coming through on the microphone, by my yarn and needles are squeaking a little bit! And it’s because sitting here under the lights, I am, my hands are a little bit sweaty.

And that is just enough to make the yarn squeak on the needles. And knit two together. And row 4 is going to be just like row 2. Slipping the first and last stitch of each sock and purling everything in between.

And the concept for this heel is a lot like what you would see on a sock that uses wraps and turns. Short rows and wraps and turns. But I have eliminated the wraps and turns. Instead, we’re going to be picking up and knitting and picking up and purling, which I actually prefer to wraps and turns.

Because the wraps, especially the second wraps, can be difficult to see and difficult to pick up, especially when you’re using tiny yarn and needles. Okay, slipping that last stitch. Okay, you’ll want to follow the pattern for this part.

I’ve only decreased twice here. Your pattern will tell you how many times and exactly what you need to do for the size of sock that you’re knitting, and whether or not you’re using the worsted weight yarn.

Um, for the first row of the increases, you knit the first stitch. From here on out it is slipping, but we need to knit that one. Knit across these stitches like normal. And when we get to the end of that row, we need to pick up and knit a stitch.

Now I had you put this marker in the first stitch, and we did two decreases, so we’re actually in a position where we want to pick up two stitches here. Just one now, and one next time we come across these stitches.

So, the reason we have the marker there is you count the one with the marker as 1, and the next V that you see going up is 2. You’ll have more than that, if you’re knitting the sock correctly. There is 1, there is 2.

I want to put my needle in the second one in this case. Just pick up and knit. That’s the end of that one. Move on over here. I’m going to knit this first stitch, knit across all the other stitches.

And now I’m ready to pick up and knit on this side. The marked stitch is 1, the second V I see is 2. So, I’m going to go into two, and turn the work. Slip the first stitch, purl back across all of these stitches.

And now, as you can imagine, I’m going to pick up and purl. So here is my marked stitch ñ where is my marked stitch? here is my marked stitch, there is 1. There is two. For pick up and knit we went from front to back, wrapped the needle and pulled it through.

To pick up and purl, we’re going to go from back to front. Wrap the needle and pull it through to the back. And that is basically ñ well, it is a purl stitch, just picked it up, out of the work. You’ll do the same thing across here.

So, you do a number of decreases, and then you pick stitches back up again. And that whole thing works out to be a heel! With the lines here like this. And you’ll see the heel shape starting, as you start to pick up the stitches, working the second half of the heel.

Follow your pattern and use these techniques to finish up the heel. And then you’ll want to knit the foot, which is just as well, it can be two things. Just plain knitting around and around as long as you need to knit the foot for the person you’re knitting the socks for.

In this pair of socks, I chose to continue the two-by-two rib along the top of the foot, and knit the bottom the sole of the foot, smooth stockinette. This makes for a snugger, stretchier sock. And in the sock weight one that I did ñ oh, no.

I did the same thing! I’m knitting these right now and I even forgot that! I continued the ribbing all the way down the foot. In this other sample that I used, I switched to 100 percent stockinette, just plain knit stitch all the way around, which is both socks fit fine.

They’re both really pretty stretchy. Just kind of a different look. Next up we’re going to talk about doing the decreases for the toe. Once you’ve finished knitting the foot of the sock, we’re ready to start on the toe decreases.

And that is this part right here, that slopes in, before we get to the end of the toe. And this is a pretty simple concept, I’m going to go through it here with you. I just have one sock as a sample, but you’ll understand what we’re doing.

Let’s take a look. Okay, I still have half of my stitches on the front needle, half of my stitches on the back needle. I’m in the starting position for magic loop, I’ll pull the back needle long. And it’s pretty simple.

I’m going to knit one, and then SSK. So, I slip one stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, put my left needle through the front of those two stitches, wrap the back needle and pull it through.

And if you need a slower demonstration of the SSK, I’ll give you a link right here. Going to knit across all the other stitches, until I get to the last three. And now I’m going to work a knit two together, and then a knit one.

And then if I had two socks here, I’d move on and do the same thing to the second sock, and I’m going to turn the work, and do the exact same thing. So, all four sides get the exact same treatment. I’ll knit one, SSK, knit across all the stitches until there are three left.

There is three. Knit two together and knit one. And then you’ll alternate that decrease round with a plain knitting round and follow the pattern for the number of times that you repeat those rounds.

And then next up, we’re going to learn how to graft the toe with the Kitchener stitch. Okay, we’re just about finished with the socks, all we have to do is graft the top of the socks together at the toe, and we’re going to use Kitchener Stitch to graft this.

And this is a way of making a seamless toe. Where it is going to look like the rest of the knitting, without a seam at all. Let’s go ahead and take a look. Here we are with just a few stitches left on each sock.

You can leave yourself about a foot long tail and break the yarn, and you’re going to need a tapestry needle for this part. Thread that on there, and we’re going to want to pull the stitches to the tips of the needles, don’t pull the back one long.

We just want everything really close to the tip of the needles. Just close enough where it is there, but it is not going to fall off. So, to get setup with Kitchener Stitch, we’re going to go through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl, and just leave it there.

And then go through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit, and just leave it there. Okay, that is the setup. Now this is the way I think about this when I do it in my head. The first two are on the front needle, the second two are on the back needle.

It’s knit, off, purl ñ purl, off, knit. Knit, off, purl ñ purl, off, knit. Let me show you what that looks like. Go in as if to knit, take that stitch off the needle. Then go into the next one as if to purl.

Jumping to the back needle. Go in as if to purl, pull that stitch off. And go in as if to knit, leave that one on. And then give it a tug, after the four-stitch repeat. So knit, off, purl ñ back needle.

Purl, off, knit. Tug. Knit, off, purl. Purl, off, knit. Tug. Knit, off, purl. Purl, off, knit. I stopped saying the words. Are you still saying them in your mind with me? Okay, we’re down to just two stitches here.

So, I can only do the first half of the repeat ñ no, the first and third stitch of the repeat to make this work. So, it is going to be knit, off. There are no more stitches to purl with. So, I’ll jump to this one and go purl, off.

Give that a tug. And there is the beautiful grafting on the toe with no seam. Got this one finished, do it for the second sock. That’s it, you’ve finished knitting the sock and grafting the toe. The last step, of course, is to weave in the ends, and give the socks a quick block, and you’re ready to wear them.

Good luck!


Source : Youtube


Deborah lives in rural Arizona, near the New Mexico border. She has a variety of interests, including water rights, writing/reading and web development. Her goal this year is to write consistently on things that she finds interesting.

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